Author’s leavenings

The best panettone of the Italian tradition
di Fabio Marzari

Whether it is panettone or pandoro that you like best – either must be an item in your Christmas Day lunch. Here’s a list of other champions of sweetness who will make your Christmas special.

IGINIO MASSARI
The king of Italian bakers offers his breads in traditional format or in several variants. Find their goods online or in the pop-up stores at the train stations in Venice and Mestre.
www.iginiomassari.it

PASTICCERIA GIOTTO
One of the best-known Italian bakeries for the goodness of their products and the wholesomeness of ingredients. Over the years, the commitment and capabilities of the inmates at Padova’s Due Palazzi Correctional Facility have been awarded by such culinary institutions as Gambero Rosso and Accademia Italiana della Cucina.
www.pasticceriagiotto.it

BAGHI’S
Traditional panettone proved and baked in a Weck glass vase. The bread is all handmade with stone-milled Italian flour, sourdough-proved, and mixed with locally-sourced eggs.
www.baghis.com

MARTESANA
An authentic, traditional Milanese bakery. An original addition to the common panettone line-up is their Panetún de l’Enzo, with chocolate and apricot – a blend of two such icons as panettone and Sachertorte. Chocolate icing wraps apricot jam and candy for an explosion of taste.
www.martesanamilano.com

ALAJMO
A Christmas collection enriched every year with beautiful new flavours. The panettone are handmade starting from sourdough and two-stage proofing. Some of them substitute olive oil for butter.
www.alajmo.it

PERBELLINI
The offella d’oro is the holy grail of Veronese breads. The recipe the Perbellinis use dates back to October 1891, when Giovanni Battista Perbellini took an existing preparation, called nadalín, and added butter and egg to it, for a softer, airier dough.
www.perbellini.com

GHIGO
If you’re in Turin for Christmas, this is something you just have to do: try Ghigo’s nuvola (lit. ‘cloud’) – one of the most amazing pastries you could ever taste: a rich pandoro with buttercream icing and caster sugar. It’s worth the trip!
www.pasticceriaghigo.it

The Giotto Bakery – the bet we won