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The art of frying

The fritter, queen of the Venetian Carnival
di Fabio Marzari

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Frying is an ancient art that has brought unmissable delights to the present day. In Venice, the undisputed protagonist of Carnival, the fritola (fritter) must be ” artfully made.”

Carnival sweets falls right between the excesses of Christmas and the delicacies of Easter. You know what’s funny, in this time of minutely regulated diets, intolerances, and health obsession of every kind, the traditional Venetian fried sweets never ceded an inch. The early modern era Guild of Deep Friers – because of course there was one – defined the fritola, the Venetian fritter or beignet, as a treat for rich and commoner alike. These cooks taught the art and left the business to their children (the guild would nominate a successor if there was no heir apparent) and each was assigned a precinct in town. They were forbidden to raise their voice in peddling their food, so much we know from history.
There’s more: the first mention of fried food dates back to even earlier, back to the late Middle Ages, around the year 1300. Marco Polo was alive at that time. The dough used to be worked by hand on a flat surface, and it seems that Venice was the first European city to use sugar. Until that time, honey was the sweetener of choice. Sugar cane was, in fact, grown in Cyprus, where Venice had colonies.

Here are some suggestions where you can enjoy some Carnival sweets worthy of note, at least in our opinion.

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EDITOR'S PICK

PASTICCERIA TONOLO

An institution. There’s barely any need to list them, but by all means, check their shop out and never mind the queue. You can only say you lived the Venice…

AMO – VENEZIA

Fondaco dei Tedeschi
Angel wings straight out of momma Alajmo are the best thing money can buy. Also noteworthy are their small fritters filled with hazelnut custard, pistachio, their signature eccezionale paste, tiramisu,…

PASTICCERIA RIZZARDINI

They have been in business since 1742 – there has to be a good reason! Everyone in town know Rizzardini’s art nouveau shop, always carrying the typical bussolà cookies, meringues,…

PASTICCERIA NOBILE

Nearby Teatro Italia on Strada Nova, one of the most frequented spots by locals and the numerous passing tourists. Their fritters delight the palate and always elicit enthusiastic comments from…

PASTICCERIA DAL MAS

The place to be in regards to little sweet and savoury preparations, you’ll find the shop a few steps away from the train station. Dal Mas make both the Venice…

DAL NONO COLUSSI

Paw-paw Colussi, literally. Venice’s most famous grandfather has been making the softest sweet focaccias since 1956. His secret? Hours and hours of upside-down proofing. Naturally, they also carry Saint Martin’s…

PASTICCERIA ROSA SALVA

This bakery is synonymous with quality. It has multiple outlets around town, and their new one in San Salvador is ready to cater to everyone’s needs in terms of sweet…

PASTICCERIA CHIUSSO

Historic Venetian pastry shop, with all Carnival sweets prepared in full respect of tradition. Soft Venetian fritters with raisins and pine nuts, filled with cream or zabaglione, and the inevitable…

PANIFICIO GIOVANNI VOLPE

The Jewish neighbourhood is where you can find kosher fritters – no milk or eggs, which makes them perfect not only for the kosher-abiding among you, but for vegans, too.…

RIZZO PANE PASTICCERIA

Literally flavour of the Levant, this fritter is dedicated to Marco Polo. Paying respect to tradition, the choice of ingredients for the 2024 carnival includes goat cottage cheese, ginger, and…
VENEZIA NEWS #311-312

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il meglio della programmazione culturale di Venezia / the best of Venice's cultural life

VENEZIA NEWS #311-312

VeNewsletter

Ogni settimana

il meglio della programmazione culturale
di Venezia