Scent of Christmas

At the table with chef Alberto Fol: Family memories and holiday tips
by Fabio Marzari
Alberto Fol The Gritti Palace

We had the opportunity, or rather, the good fortune, to savor the dishes prepared by Executive Chef Alberto Fol and his kitchen brigade at the large communal table at The Gritti Palace’s Epicurean School.

Christmas cooking is rich enough as it is, but if we are to step foot in a place where opulence and lavishness are the mot d’ordre, like The Gritti Palace, we shall expect no less than a triumph at every dinner table. Executive chef Alberto Fol presented his latest menu, a beautiful combination of tastes from our hill country to the north and the richness of Venetian seas. The different elements combine perfectly and show the greatest respect for the fruits of the earth.

I am a very traditional person. I would prefer our international guests to become acquainted, as much as possible, with the many lesser-known Italian dishes.

Christmas childhood memories
My memories are all about our mountains. First thing coming to mind is certainly game, and the smell of a lit woodstove. Though I live in the plains, now, I wanted a woodstove in my kitchen. There’s nothing like it, it’s so romantic, and I love using it. only woodstoves can give out that smell, can cook a perfect cotechino, can slow cook broth, meat. It just feels like home, like holidays. Woodstoves used to be quite big and could fit several pots and pans atop. Back when I was a kid, eating seafood was unusual in the Alps. A family friend from Venice used to bring us some, and that’s how I got to know all the typical Venetian recipes: boiled fish, crab, squid, cod… that was for Christmas Eve. On Christmas Day, we had a meat menu: tortellini, roasts, boiled meat with all the typical sauces…

At the Gritti
We will serve both traditional Italian Christmas fare and different menus for Christmas Eve, for New Year’s Day gala, and for New Year’s Day brunch. There will be capon and cabbage savoury pastry, tortellini, fish soup, boiled meat, lobster in crust with goat yogurt tartar sauce, and pumpkin, squid, oyster, and sea urchin dumplings. Pandoro and panettone are homemade, as is all pastry. For Christmas Eve, we’ll add a hazelnut praline dessert with tangerine and almond jelly, while on New Year’s Eve, a sorbet with Tulakalum chocolate and a Kopi Luwak crumble with raspberry jelly. My favourite will always be the tortellini, though, the small ones, bathed in capon broth. Oh, and a few truffle shavings on top! I love boiled meat and zampone with lentils.

Some foreign inspiration
I am a very traditional person. I’d rather our international guests be acquainted, as much as they can, with the many Italian dishes that are less known. My goal is to be instrumental in the knowledge of these many beautiful recipes. Also, this is a celebration of our biodiversity, our different environments and climates. While respecting seasonality, we have access to a limitless pantry of ingredients and products, which allow me to work on a very solid, focused menu that can also be whimsical and fun.

Featured image: Alberto Fol © Daniele Nalesso